“Bahnhofstrasse” (a poem Zürich 1918)
In 1918, The Importance of Being Earnest was performed here by the English Players with Henry Carr (reimmortalised by Tom Stoppard in Travesties). The Kaufleuten is again used as a theatre.
Meeting place with Budgen during the First World War where Joyce often drank Fendant white wine (“Erzherzogin”: “archdiochesse … artstouchups …”, FW 171.25). Heimplatz or Pfauen is now part of the Mövenpick restaurant chain. (A peacock sign is all that remains of the inn from Joyce’s time. The interior has been completely renovated)
Meeting of the Waters, Limmat and Sihl, park behind the main station, site of Joyce photographs 1938.
A restaurant patronised by Joyce in the thirties. The Kronenhalle people generously supported Nora Joyce in the bad years after Joyce died. There are famous paintings on the walls. Situated at Bellevue, at the bottom of Rämistrasse.
Statue by August Suter, Uraniastrasse 9
Gloriastrasse 18, where Joyce died 13 January 1941. Now the Berufsschule für Pflege vom Roten Kreuz.
Weinbergstrasse 34 (tram 7, 15, y10 “Haldenegg”): where Joyce used to attend Good Friday Services.
James Joyce Pub
Pelikanstrasse 6 (off Bahnhofstrasse, 5 minutes from the Joyce Foundation) originally Jury’s Antique Bar in Dame Street, Dublin.
Dick & Davy
Mensa for medical students, designed by Hannes Vogel, based on (Gogarty’s and Joyce’s) “Medical Dick” and “Medical Davy”. Fascinating quotations in several languages and astrological motifs from Ulysses.
Zum Weissen Kreuz
Seefeldstrasse, “Club des Etrangers”
How to get there
Hotel St. Gotthard
Hotel Carlton Elite
James Joyce Pub
Zürich James Joyce Foundation
Pelikanstrasse 18, near the James Joyce Pub
Main post office (“the sillypost”), to the right of the main station (Hauptbahnhof).
Gasthaus Hoffnung :
Reitergasse / Lagerstrasse: beyond Sihlpost, no longer a hotel
Seefeld Area :
Trams No. 2 or 4 as far as “Kreuzstrasse” or “Feldeggstrasse”; all within easy walking distance
off Seefeldstrasse (hill side)
Kreuzstrasse 19, third floor
off Seefeldstrasse (lake side)
Seefeldstrasse 54, ground floor right
slightly set back, behind No. 56
Seefeldstrasse 73, third floor
Trams No. 9 or 10 to “Haldenbach”
When you exit the tram you are facing Universitätstrasse 38. There is a plaque and the faded name “Fortuna” on the facade. Walk around the side of the building to see “Station Ulysses”. Behind it you will see a part of the university that was once the Maternity Hospital (Frauenklinik): for months Joyce had the Zürich equivalent of Holles Street right under his eyes.
Across the street and down the hill from Universitätstrasse 38.
From his window Joyce could see Marthe Fleischmann’s window; she lived at Culmannstrasse 6 (probably now No. 8).
Tram No. 5 or 6 to the Zoo.
Fluntern Cemetery (Friedhof)
The cemetery is right behind the terminal: take first entrance, go up an avenue of birches as far as it goes, then turn right and look for the steps (on your left) that take you to the statue made by Milton Hebald and inaugurated on Bloomsday 1966.
Schwesternhaus zum Roten Kreuz:
On the way down (or up) from the zoo, get off at “Plattenstrasse” (near the University, also within walking distance from Universitätstrasse)
Dick & Davy Cafeteria for Medical Students
(Hörsaaltrakt des Universitätspitals) just opposite the old Rotkreuzspita